onsens: the real deal

When we first moved here to Japan I swore I would never do 2 things: use a squattie pottie and go to an onsen. I'm still holding strong on the squattie pottie, and yes, there have been days when I've had to hold it a long time. But Saturday night, on our campout, I caved and went to an onsen. Before you judge me too harshly, please read on.

First, for anyone who doesn't know, let me tell you what an onsen is. Onsen is a Japanese term for hot springs. Onsen water is believed to have healing powers. The Japanese LOVE to go to onsens. Anytime there is a holiday, people flock to the onsens to relax and soak in the water. They are usually combined outdoor/indoor with multiple hot tubs and the establishment will also usually offer other spa services, like massages etc. Now here's the catch. There are no swimsuits allowed in an onsen! The Japanese talk about a "naked communion" but I gotta tell you, I just wasn't feeling it Saturday night. By the way, they are separated into mens/womens but children under the age of 8 can pick which parent they go with.

Whenever the topic of onsens comes up, I am always in the minority when I act appalled at the thought of walking around naked in front of people. Strangers, maybe, but people I know? definitely not. My friends laugh and say I haven't lived here long enough. No one else seems to mind. Actually, everybody else loves it.

Back to the story. So Saturday night on our camp out it is announced that everyone is going to the local onsen, which is supposedly, amazing. Once again, I was in the minority. Almost every family was going. 2 of my friends were staying behind to put their babies to sleep, but all 3 of my kids were begging to go b/c all of their friends were going. I was freezing cold. It had rained the night before and I had been wearing wet shoes all day. We also had brought blankets instead of sleeping bags which were definitely not warm enough. So given the choice of onsen, or sitting in my tent alone with wet feet and cold blankets, I chose onsen. The need for warmth overcame the need for modesty.

I was really nervous--but pleasantly surprised that the towel they give you when you walk in was pretty big. (I'd heard mini-wash cloth horror stories). I was determined to be the first one in the water, out of our group of friends (6 or 7 families) so I changed quickly with Emily and Jake and grabbed my towel and went in. Really, no one was looking at me, I think!, and I wasn't looking at anyone else so it didn't seem too big a deal. You have to scrub yourself clean before you can get in. For the 60 seconds or so that I was in the hot tub it was very relaxing and warm!! But it was way too hot for little Jake. He tried to get in twice, and was screaming his head off b/c it was too hot. And the fact that he was really tired was adding to his tantrum. Onsens are supposed to be quiet, hushed, relaxed places so I knew we had to leave. plus I was also getting a panicked feeling thinking about all my friends about to come in. Sitting there with strangers: not so bad. Friends plus all their daughters: still a little weird. So I left Emily in with her friends and Jake and I got out and sat in the lobby the rest of the night.

And that is my first onsen experience. The kids loved it and didn't seem to care or notice that no one was wearing a bathing suit. Trent came out and said, "onsens are the most wonderful place in the world!" I don't know if I agree with him on that, but I have at least conquered my onsen fear a little bit and would even do it again if I was alone with strangers. But NO, I will not be going on the Relief Society onsen trip next week. I'm just not there yet.